Roll it well at the take-out and it comes out fast at the next put-in. A packraft that goes into the pack badly comes out slowly and wears out sooner. Packing it well takes about two minutes once you have a method.
Get the air out before you fold anything
Open the valves and press the air out from the far end towards them. Roll the hull as you go so the air moves ahead of you instead of trapping in pockets that spring back.
Air left inside makes the roll fat and uneven. It also makes the straps do work they should not have to.
Dry it if you can
Water left inside a rolled hull for days is what makes a packraft smell and what invites mould into the seams. On a day trip, tip it up, let it drain, and wipe what you can reach.
On a multi-day trip you will often pack a wet hull. That is fine. Unroll it and dry it properly when you get home rather than leaving it rolled in a hot car boot.
Fold to the width of your pack, then roll
Lay the packraft flat and fold the sides in so the folded width matches the inside of your pack. Get this right first and the roll fits instead of fights.
Then roll from the end away from the valves, firmly and evenly, keeping the edges square. A tight even roll is smaller than a tight uneven one.
Fold the seat and any removable parts separately. Rolled inside, they make hard lumps that press on the fabric.
Where it sits in the pack
Close to your back and about mid height. That keeps the weight against your spine rather than hanging off it, which is the difference between a pack that walks well and one that pulls you backwards.
Some people strap the roll outside the pack. It is quicker to reach and it keeps a wet hull away from dry gear. It is also exposed to scrub and to being dropped. On a scrubby walk in, inside is kinder to the fabric.
The paddle
A four-piece paddle breaks down small enough to go inside or down the side of most packs. Blades down, shafts together, secured so nothing slides out when you lean over.
Loose blades flogging against rock all day chip the edges. A rubber band or a strap around the bundle is enough.
Protect the fabric from the rest of your kit
The things that damage a packraft in a pack are the things you would expect. Tent pegs, stove parts, a knife, crampons, a fishing hook left in a pocket.
Keep sharp items in their own stuff sack on the other side of the pack. It costs nothing and saves the pinhole you would otherwise find at the water.
At the water, unpack in an order
Packraft out and unrolled first so it can relax while you sort everything else. Vest on. Paddle assembled. Then inflate, then load, then launch.
Do it the same way every time and you stop leaving the air bag or a shoe on the bank.
Repacking at the take-out
Empty the hull of water and grit before it goes anywhere near the pack. Sand left inside grinds against the fabric on the walk out.
A quick check as you roll is the cheapest inspection you will ever do. Run a hand over the floor and the tube seams. Small damage found at the take-out is a repair at home. Found next trip, it is the trip.
At home
Unroll it. Let it dry completely, out of direct sun. Store it loosely rolled or loosely folded rather than compressed hard into the same creases every time.
Repeated tight folds in exactly the same place are what wear fabric over years. Vary where the folds land.
Where a Seeka fits
Seeka packrafts are built around this cycle: walk, inflate, paddle, pack. Heavy-duty, ultralight tubes over an 840D floor, yellow with black trim, self-bailing across all three models.
Solo 2.4 kg. Tourer 3.65 kg. Duo 5.8 kg. Every packraft ships with seat, backrest, air bag, carry bag, skeg, tie-down straps and repair kit.
Every Seeka self-bails and carries a two-year warranty on materials and welding. Or hire one for a weekend first.